Amman is an excellent departure point for visiting some of Jordan's most impressive ancient structures. Driving east of the city into the desert allows one to see various castles and fortresses once used by the Omayyad caliphs of Damascus. (They can be visited on one long or several shorter day trips from Amman.) We advise the following driving loop: Start with Qasr Haraneh (also called Karraneh), one of the best preserved castles, which is thought to have been used as a resting spot for camel caravans. From there, head to Qasr Amra, with its beautiful frescoes, curved ceilings and bath complex. Next is Qasr Azraq, known for its 8th-century black basalt structure with fresco-covered walls. It was once used as headquarters by Lawrence of Arabia. The nearby town of Azraq is also home to a lush desert oasis. This rare wetlands hosts populations of water buffaloes, ostriches, ibexes and scores of species _of migrating birds. About 6 mi/10 km south of Azraq is the wildlife reserve of Shaumari, a semidesert flatland with striped hyenas, red wolves, jerboas, gerbils, gazelles, ostriches and Arabian oryxes.

Finally, stop at Qasr Hallabat. Dating from the 2nd century, it's the closest to Amman, though its ruins are little more than a pile of rocks. A short drive west of town in the Wadi Seer Valley are the ruins of Qasr al Abid Castle, the Araq al Amir Caves and the impressive remains of Iraq al Amir (a 2nd century Greek castle surrounded by a moat). Excursions can also be made from Amman to the nearby towns of Ajlun and Salt. The latter, located 13 mi/20 km northwest of Amman, has charming 19th century carved-stone architecture.

    Ajlun

Famous for the Qalaat al Rabadh, a 12th-century fortress built by the Saracens (Arabs) as a defence against the European Crusaders, Ajlun sits atop the tallest mountain in Jordan (4,068 ft/1,240m). It affords a fabulous view of the area. Ajlun also has a 600 year old mosque. The drive to the town passes through the picturesque Dibbin National Park, which is filled with olive orchards and stands of pine trees. Ajlun is best seen as a day trip from Amman. Be aware, however, that the newer highway heading north from Amman to Irbid completely bypasses Ajlun. Visitors should take the older road, which allows a stopover in Ajlun. 30 mil/45 km northwest of Amman